The Art of a Australian Breakfast
July 25, 2018 - Supermoon
Mr. Granger had no goal of reinventing a design of Australian food as seen from abroad, though he did; there are now mixed Bills, in Japan, Korea and Hawaii. There isn’t one in New York (yet), though a cafes we do have say a conspicuous fealty to that strange Bills menu.
But in relocating beyond, they curve off in opposite and engaging directions toward Thai flavors (at Dudley’s, where crispy rice salad with uninformed spices is a poetic plate for breakfast with a boiled egg), or tellurian piquancy mixtures like dukkah and togarashi (at Hole in a Wall), or health trends like chia seeds and pellet bowls (at a mint Charley St.).
This splendid design of Australian food — packaged with uninformed and internal produce, invitingly tellurian in a flavors, health-conscious though not calm — is comparatively new.
Through a 1980s and ’90s, Australia’s longtime repute as a culinary backwater — British food, though worse — was transformed. From colonization, that rigourously began in 1788, a diet for new arrivals had been complicated with Britishisms like beef pies, sausage rolls, canned vegetables and chocolate bars.
As in a United States, a Australian food series meant upending a formal, Eurocentric fine-dining scene, embracing uninformed and locally grown food, and incorporating newcomer food traditions. New bakeries done slow-risen sourdough and whole-grain breads. Dairies mastered Mediterranean cheeses like halloumi, feta and pecorino, informed to Australia’s vast Greek and Italian newcomer communities. Talented chefs like Tetsuya Wakada, Kylie Kwong and David Thompson ushered Asian flavors into a mainstream.
And all of it led to New York City’s sidewalks, where people now wait on weekends to fist in for $14 fried-egg sandwiches (with arugula, bacon, tomatoes and chile relish) and $16 folded eggs with peas, avocado, spinach and salsa verde.